I started with a shade/weathering layer of black, then stippled it with beastial brown and a leather brown. Over which I sponged a fair amount of masking fluid. This will allow me to use blue tac to remove the paint over the weathering, leaving the weathering exposed, after I've worked up to the highlight layer. Masking fluid can be a bit expensive, but you get enough to do hundreds of miniatures and models in one bottle. I've found that the sponge from miniature blisters works perfectly to lay it down for weathering.
These pictures give a good look at the 'rust' effect I've worked up with the stippling of browns on a black base coat. This gives a nice beaten and rusted look, and with a drop pod rusting would be normal. As thermal effects will cause rapid oxidation of metals.
Next I layed down the base coat of shadow grey. I'll be going up to a shade layer in recesses using Fenris Grey. This will then be followed by a touch up with shadow grey to remove some of the 'blotchiness' you get from up then down shading and highlighting. This way of working allows for specific effects and the use of layers to fade together in more convincing ways.
The shade layer being next I'll be posting again in a few hours to show the progress. These pods should be completed tonight. I've been wondering if I should finish up the interior or leave it a grey/black as it is now. Since detail painting at this stage would be problematic at best on the interior. I may do some highlighting and minor detailing though, as it would be nice to see when on the table deployed with doors open.
Comments, critiques, etc always welcome! More to come in a few hours!
Great site! I like the images in it!...Daniel
ReplyDeleteThanks! I do the best I can with what I have at hand. I'm still rather disappointed in my pictures, but that will likely change with my next lighting box I'm building soon.
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